I had a wonderful night’s sleep. I turned off the light at 9:00 PM, woke up briefly at 3:30 AM to go to the bathroom, and then slept through until 5:30 AM. Every morning, I give myself some extra time to close my eyes again; that’s my extra sleep quality time. Breakfast at the hotel isn’t until 8:00 AM, but by then, I want to be on the road. Last night, I bought two croissants at a DIA supermarket, which I’m now enjoying with mandarin and orange jam from Super U. I don’t have a kettle in the room, but the hot water is warm enough to make instant coffee, with a good splash of sweetened milk that I used to love on my bread as a child. At 7:15 AM, I set off towards the N-634, which runs alongside the highway and railway towards Bilbao, about 50 km away.
The industry on leaving Eibar and Miguel showing me the way to the e weg wijst naar de 'ruta verde'
I was a bit worried because that road is heavily trafficked and often has three lanes. However, I had forgotten that it was Sunday, and for the first three hours, the road was practically deserted: pure luxury. The majority of the route is downhill, though there are occasional (un)pleasant hills. As I got closer to Bilbao, the roads became a tangle, all intertwining, and at times, I got a bit disoriented. Guardian angels, sent by Rientje, always help me. Miguel, a software engineer from London visiting his parents, pointed me to a ‘ruta verde’ which I followed. Around 10:00 AM, I rode into Bilbao; everything was calm because yesterday was a holiday, and today, there’s another celebration.
Bilbao: the town hall and the opera house
I ended up at the Ayuntamiente, the town hall, and from there, I explored the old part of the city, even though the police advised me to stay away for the time being. There were still too many drunkards. Nevertheless, I cycled in and immediately arrived at the Santiago Cathedral, partly Gothic but with a 19th-century tower. Also noteworthy is the multi-sided narthex that was added to the side. I also took photos of the opera house and some old buildings. Then I rode along the bike path next to the canal towards the Guggenheim Museum, but first, I passed the Calatrava Bridge. Frank Gehry also built the Liège station back home. He constructed the Guggenheim in the 1980s when the canal area was a dilapidated industrial zone. The impact of building this museum was enormous, both culturally and economically. The economy revived, and Bilbao has indeed become a nice city where it’s pleasant to stay.
Bilbao: portal of the cathedral, Guggenheim museum and the area arounf it
Directly across from the Guggenheim is the Deusto Jesuit University on the opposite side. They filmed the construction work throughout the entire process; impressive. I knew Julia Gonzalez, who was then vice-rector, and as a thank-you for stepping in for a sick keynote speaker, I received a free tour of the Guggenheim Museum. The beautiful flower puppy attracts a lot of attention, as does Louise Bourgeois' spider. That lady also makes lovely coffee cups; last year, I received four for my birthday from John and Litje. The coffee tastes even better from them. I don’t have time to tell more, but I’m doing this beautiful city an injustice with this brief report.
Bilba: Guggenheim museum, the flowered puppy and the Deusto university
After cycling around the area for a bit, I head towards Castro Urdiales and follow the Camino del Norte along the canal. In the last few days, more and more people have wished me a "buen camino," often with a pat on the shoulder, and that feels good. On the way, I stopped in Burgo Santullán at a beautiful St. John the Baptist Church for lunch. In the cross above the entrance door, John’s head is depicted, as he was beheaded.
A little further on, there’s an industrial area where petroleum is brought in and cracked; the ships are waiting in the nearby bay.
Burgo Santullán with the John theBaptist church
The last 15 kilometers are particularly tough with three cols, the last of which has a 10% incline. I use my Turbo to get my bike and all my luggage up, and I just about manage. Along the way, I pass two female pilgrims, all in reflective red, and I shout a "buen camino" to them, which they return. I stop at the top of the hill and have a beautiful view of the bays and the sea. I take some photos, and in the meantime, the ladies have also arrived; Letitia and Emily, two sisters around 65 from Tennessee, USA, who are searching for the roots of their Catholic faith. They also wanted to go to Loyola, where I was yesterday, but didn’t have the time. They find it a fantastic experience; no fast walking, but slow walking that gives you time for each other and yourself. I take a picture and wish them all the best.
Challenging hills, the two sisters from Tenessee and a beautiful view of the bay
Around 3:30 PM, I arrived at the small apartment I rented from a lady. The bathroom is shared, but it’s clean and cozy. I take a shower and still want to explore the old town, as the rest is beaches, hotels, cafés, and restaurants. So, I head to the beautiful Santa Maria Church, located on a large rock at the entrance to the harbor, where there’s also a castle. The Gothic church from the 13th century is a rebuilt (fortified) Romanesque church, which is evident in the west facade. The buttresses and large windows are clearly Gothic. The side chapels were added around the 16th century, paid for by wealthy merchants who traded with England and Flanders. The castle is a typical polygonal building that was easy to defend, partly surrounded by the sea. I couldn’t go inside because Sunday afternoon is the pastor’s half-day off... too bad for the pilgrims. I got my stamp at the tourist office instead.
Castro Urdiales: the cathedral and the castle
I walked back to my room, bought a couple of beers because I still have bread, cheese, and salami, ate well, and then wrote this blog. Another 100 km cycled today, and tomorrow nearly the same to Santander. I’m looking forward to meeting Bruno on the afternoon of August 30th, and then we’ll cycle together to Santiago in 4 or 5 days. That will be a celebration..
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