I knew that the second day, which would take me from the Abbey of Scourmont to the Centre Paroissial St Étienne in Châlons-en-Champagne, would be a difficult one, as a distance of 165 km had to be covered. So I got up at 5 a.m. in the Bethany Pilgrim House. Jean Marie, a layperson who works for the fathers and does it excellently, had prepared my breakfast the night before. I only had to press the button on the coffee machine, and I had delicious coffee. I could even have had a Chimay for breakfast, but I didn't because you need to be fully awake when cycling. By 5:40 a.m., I was packed and out the door in the rain.
For three hours, it rained so hard that I got drenched despite my poncho raincoat. It was still half-dark, and I tried to follow Google Maps, but it took me down paths that were soaked with rain and where I could barely pedal. I ended up taking a detour, losing a lot of time. Eventually, I arrived in Rethel, still in the rain, which I wanted to visit briefly as it is a fortified village from the 16th century with a building in the shape of a pentagon (star-shaped). In the 17th century, it was further strengthened by the architect Vauban.
The fortress of Vauban in Rethel. One of the roads on which I am cycling
Later on, I lost internet access and couldn't get it back. So I had to rely on memory, with help from Magda. Eventually, I got back on track thanks to Magda and a Frenchman who was cleaning his motorbike in the rain (!). He advised me to follow a particular road that was relatively flat, and he was right. By noon, I was about halfway, but still had 80 km to go.
I had planned to visit the Russian cemetery from WWI near Châlons-en-Champagne, as well as the small Orthodox monastery associated with it. Russian soldiers fought alongside the Allied armies when the Tsar was still in power. There are still two full-time Orthodox monks at the Monastery of All Russian Saints, which received a permanent church in 1982. This was a gift from Finland, a beautiful wooden church with a bell tower next to it. The church was built in Finland and transported in parts to France, where it was assembled in Mourmelon-le-Grand.
The Russian cemetry and church near Mourmillon-le-Grand
After this visit around 4:30 p.m., I still had 40 km to cycle, and a lot went wrong. I fell (only some scrapes) and ended up on the wrong path until Magda and two kind French people recommended a shortcut along the canal that passes by the cathedral. Around 8 p.m., I was at the Place Notre-Dame near the Notre-Dame Collegiate Church, where a priest was supposed to give me a room at the Centre Paroissial. I had already called the priest, but he never answered. While waiting in front of the Centre Paroissial and as Magda was searching for a nearby room for me—because I was quite tired—a young lady arrived, an SDF (homeless person) who regularly received 20 euros from the parish priest for some food. Suddenly, the young priest, a Breton named Erwan, which means Yves, came running. He hadn't heard my messages but suddenly remembered that he had promised me a bed and Inesse, the young lady, 20 euros. He was super nice, and soon Inesse had some money, and I had a room with all the amenities.
Erwan , the priest; the parish centre of Chalons-en-Champagne; the box for donations
He took me to a kebab shop where I could buy something to eat, and, wonder of wonders, there was a half-keg of chilled Affligem in the fridge at the Centre Paroissial. I was overjoyed: a room, a kebab, and a refreshing Affligem pint. It was essentially a terrible day, but thanks to Magda and Father Erwan, who apologized a thousand times, I had a long night's sleep after a very difficult day. I was all alone in that parish house, and around 5 a.m., I woke up because I heard someone walking around the house. I called him, and he reassured me. He had forgotten to mention that the cleaning lady always comes very early to clean. I then fell back asleep until 7 a.m.: splendid.
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